“Uncommon Apples: A Magical Food Tale”

Welcome to Eater’s Book Club, a column where we share the books — old or new — that we’ve read this month. (Yes, there’s a focus on food, eating, and dining out.)

Apples of Uncommon Character: Heirlooms, Modern Classics, and Little-Known Wonders
by Rowan Jacobsen
Bloomsbury USA

Apples of Uncommon Character fulfills exactly what it claims on the surface: This book serves as a comprehensive guide to various apple varieties, detailing their geographical origins, the period of their development, and the distinctive features that set them apart. A few months ago, when Eater’s national critic Bill Addison strongly urged me to read it from cover to cover, I was rather skeptical of his assertion that it was no ordinary reference work. I should have trusted him; now, you should trust me: This book is truly magical. Rowan Jacobsen’s research is incredibly thorough, his discoveries are captivating, and his prose approaches the realm of poetry. Whether he’s weaving the ghostly tale behind the Redfield apple, with its bloody core, or subtly criticizing the waxy mundaneness of a Golden Delicious, it’s food writing unlike anything I’ve encountered before. It has made me develop a love for apples in a way I never thought possible. —Helen Rosner